Hospitality Included’s 2023 festival drew nearly 5,000 people for local food vendors, artists, and music. Courtesy photo

A new wine club founded by a Detroiter seeks to make the city’s burgeoning wine industry an inclusive one. 

In the last year, Detroit has seen two new wine shops open: Vesper Bookstore & Wine Bar in Core City and Bar Chenin downtown in the Siren building. The additions join standout Paramita Sound, named one of the 2024 USA TODAY Bars of the Year, long-time favorite outdoor wine garden Motor City Wine and newcomers, like Ladder 4 Wine Bar, which sources food from local farms. 

The wine scene is expanding in Detroit amid a growth in the state of Michigan’s $6 billion wine industry. On the riverfront, Black-owned Brix Wine is already seen as a place for Black people, said Thor Jones, founder of Hospitality Included, a hospitality industry advocacy group. But other places where Black people might not feel welcome are where Jones said he’s trying to bridge the gap. 

Hospitality Included founder Thor Jones. Credit: Brea’Ann White

“While the wine scene is growing and becoming the cool thing in the city, there’s still a large demographic of Detroit that does not really – don’t want to say it doesn’t feel welcome, but they’re not super aware of it, and they [wine bars] can kind of come off very pretentious to people,” said Jones, whose group threw a wildly-popular local food festival for three summers drawing nearly 5,000 people.

Jones, with a decade-and-a-half of experience in the hospitality industry, has previously critiqued some of Detroit’s white restaurant owners for not doing more to welcome Black residents for dining or work opportunities.

To bridge the gap between the wine community and the wider community, Jones is launching “a monthly gathering rooted in connection, culture, and community” featuring a wine list created by a culture-creating community member and a wine expert, and an “approachable” food menu. The first Hospitality Included Wine Club meets May 19 at Ladder 4, no reservation required. 

Jones, who previously worked in the food industry with the creators of Bar Chenin, said that, as inclusive as the new wine bars are in Detroit, there’s not a huge representation of Black Detroiters. 

The first event will present a wine list created by Detroit artist Tony Whlgn and Bar Chenin owner Nick Arone, paired with Michigan & Trumbull Detroit-style pizza. Tickets to the event at Ladder 4 Wine Bar’s outdoor patio are free; no reservations required. 

“The hope is that this [wine club] will kind of level the playing field and allow those who may be afraid to step into those waters be able to access wine in an environment that’s just super approachable and comfortable,” said Jones. 

Over the last two decades, Michigan’s wine grape production acreage has more than doubled and in 2022 a new statewide conference “Dirt to Glass” hit the scene, looking to grow the industry. Driven by climate change and warmer temperatures, more of the state is increasingly suitable for growing wine grapes, transforming Michigan into one of the country’s premier wine regions.

Less than 1% of American winemakers are Black, according to the Association of African American Vintners. 

The first wine club event will present a wine list created by Detroit artist Tony Whlgn and Bar Chenin owner Nick Arone, paired with Michigan & Trumbull Detroit-style pizza. Credit: Christine Ferretti, BridgeDetroit

Artist Whlgn said he explored wines while living in New York and, upon moving back to Detroit in 2018, created an influencer campaign with a Michigan-based Black-owned brand: Motu Viget, which is now available in over 50 Meijer locations across the state. 

Last week, Whlgn met with Arone to select the wines for Monday’s event, which both plan to attend. Whlgn said Detroit’s wine scene is on the up. 

“I think it’s going in a great direction,” he said. 

Hosting monthly events, like the wine club, is the sweet spot for Hospitality Included right now. 

In July, Jones announced on social media that the Hospitality Included Festival would not happen in 2024 and was on pause, to the disappointment of many. Jones said it bummed him out too but the funding and venue weren’t in place. 

“There are some opportunities to do something on a more monthly basis that we’re kind of sitting on right now,” he said, “and hopefully, in the near future, we’ll know if that’s going to come to fruition this summer or next.” 

For now, the focus is on the wine club. 

“All these wine shops and stuff are popping, and it’s seeing a big push in the city, let’s make sure no one gets left behind, and that we can educate the community and their palettes can grow as well as the rest of the city,” said Jones. 

Jena is BridgeDetroit's environmental reporter, covering everything from food and agricultural to pollution to climate change. She was a 2022 Data Fellow at the USC Annenberg Center for Health Journalism...